By 8am on Day 4 I had been in the sea, had breakfast and packed to be on my way to Falmouth. The highlight of this day was the journey through the old mines where proper cycle paths have been created. Before that I had been up and down the usual collection of steep hills so it was nice to go along flat traffic-free paths. And just when I was getting hungry and my phone was running out of juice I came across a cyclists cafe. Here I indulged myself in spaghetti in toast and something sweet and chocolatey, and of course, the obligatory mocha. They also let me charge my phone. The phone is essential as I made the decision not to bring any maps; the mapping, the Open Cycle Map, is on my phone, and the GPS tells me my exact position.
After that it all went a bit pear-shaped. No one told me how hilly Falmouth was. I had been there a few times before, in a car, it's amazing how you think places are flat when you visit them in a car. Falmouth feels mountainous when you travel by bike. I found a campsite in the Maen Valley to the south of the town and then walked along the coast to meet up with Tribey in the Seven Stars. I knew about the Seven Stars as I had been there before, it is a cute little pub run by a Reverend. After that we went down to a bar called the Front and to be honest I can't remember much after that apart from a spell in an Indian Restaurant and a boring cab driver taking me back to base.
Thursday, August 4, 2011
Land's End to London - Day 3
I had news from Tribey, he was coming down to Falmouth and it was decided that we would meet for a couple of pints in that fair town. This meant that I had to leave Sennen so I headed for Hayle, near St Ives. The initial part of the journey merely retraced Day 1's cycle ride from Penzance. Along the way I passed the man from Carlisle. It made me wonder if he had abandoned his plans to walk all the way back to his home town. He had complained about his knee to the couple next to us on the Sennen campsite. Anyway, I just cycled past him, after all, he never said goodbye.
Once in Hayle I sought after a campsite that me and Mel had used many moons ago, in the dunes near a place called Phillack. Eventually I found it but they wanted to charge me £29. I said "I could stay in to a hotel for that". The woman said "But we've got swimming pool", I nearly replied by pointing to the Atlantic Ocean about 100 yards away but I didn't. After a few ups and downs (hills I mean) I found another campsite that was in the dunes and a stones throw away from the sea, for £12.
Once in Hayle I sought after a campsite that me and Mel had used many moons ago, in the dunes near a place called Phillack. Eventually I found it but they wanted to charge me £29. I said "I could stay in to a hotel for that". The woman said "But we've got swimming pool", I nearly replied by pointing to the Atlantic Ocean about 100 yards away but I didn't. After a few ups and downs (hills I mean) I found another campsite that was in the dunes and a stones throw away from the sea, for £12.
Land's End to London - Day 2
I didn't do a lot during the afternoon on Day 2. The walking man from Carlisle made his way and didn't even say goodbye. He looked a little tense, I had earlier told him that the walk from here to St Ives was packed with lots of ups and downs and basically it was a right bastard. I managed to book tickets for the Minack Theatre to see The Lion in Winter.
I went down to the theatre on the bike, about a five mile ride and got there reasonably early. For anyone that is not familiar with the theatre it was built in to the cliff by a Rowena Cade. The result is that you watch with the backdrop of Porthcurno beach, the Atlantic and the Lizard in the distance. The bloke sat next to me was a birdwatcher and as we were waiting for the show to start we saw peregrine falcons, ravens, shag, gannets and various other birds. Later, in the dark, bats replaced the birds. The show was good; it was about King Henry II of England and is many feuds with his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and his sons. The cycle back to camp was interesting, in the dark, down country lanes.
I went down to the theatre on the bike, about a five mile ride and got there reasonably early. For anyone that is not familiar with the theatre it was built in to the cliff by a Rowena Cade. The result is that you watch with the backdrop of Porthcurno beach, the Atlantic and the Lizard in the distance. The bloke sat next to me was a birdwatcher and as we were waiting for the show to start we saw peregrine falcons, ravens, shag, gannets and various other birds. Later, in the dark, bats replaced the birds. The show was good; it was about King Henry II of England and is many feuds with his wife, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and his sons. The cycle back to camp was interesting, in the dark, down country lanes.
Land's End to London - Day 1
After a stop off at Snooty Towers in Marylebone and some fine hospitality from Lord and Lady Snooty I embarked on my trip to Land's End. A short cycle ride to Paddington station was followed by a comfortable journey to Exeter St Davids station. Here I had to change to the next train in six minutes, including untethering my bike from the bicycle carriage. I wasn't comfortable with this and it was all my own fault as I went with a cheap £20 ticket rather than one that involved no changes for double the price. Before I knew it I had about 16 boy scouts in front of me also alighting at Exeter. I made it to the bicycle carriage but while I was releasing my bike a random railway worker closed the door on me, signifying to the engine driver that all was ready to go. Anyway, I stuck my head out of the door and said, "I haven't finished yet!" Finally I got the bike off the train and ran to the other train on the adjacent platform, just making it in time, although I had to stand all the way from Exeter to Penzance!
In Penzance I was greeted by very hot sunshine, it had been dull and overcase in London when I left. After a very pleasant cycle around St Michael's Bay there came the first hill, and what a beauty. A woman said "You're brave" as I began the ascent. After a quick pint at the Lamorna Wink I continued to Sennen up and down lots of hills. I pitched up at the Seaview Caravan and Camping Park and then cycled down to Sennen Cove for a walk on the beach. The night ended with a couple of pints of Cornish Rattler cider (cyder) in the campsite bar. Just before I left, a strange chap from Carlisle entered the building, backpacked up to the neck, asking if there was a place for him to camp. He was put next to me so I led him down to the spot in the dark. I got in my tent and left him to it, it wasn't pitch black as the toilet block was shedding its light. It was quite funny though listening to him chuntering to himself as he erected his tent. He told me he was walking back to Carlisle, and people think I'm mad, at least I get to sit down on the bike.
In Penzance I was greeted by very hot sunshine, it had been dull and overcase in London when I left. After a very pleasant cycle around St Michael's Bay there came the first hill, and what a beauty. A woman said "You're brave" as I began the ascent. After a quick pint at the Lamorna Wink I continued to Sennen up and down lots of hills. I pitched up at the Seaview Caravan and Camping Park and then cycled down to Sennen Cove for a walk on the beach. The night ended with a couple of pints of Cornish Rattler cider (cyder) in the campsite bar. Just before I left, a strange chap from Carlisle entered the building, backpacked up to the neck, asking if there was a place for him to camp. He was put next to me so I led him down to the spot in the dark. I got in my tent and left him to it, it wasn't pitch black as the toilet block was shedding its light. It was quite funny though listening to him chuntering to himself as he erected his tent. He told me he was walking back to Carlisle, and people think I'm mad, at least I get to sit down on the bike.
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